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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.